Ete Sen?

"The breezes of the West African night were intimate and shy, licking the hair, sweeping through cotton dresses with unseemly intimacy, then disappearing into the utter blackness. Daylight was equally insistent, but much more bold and thoughtless. It dazzled, muddling the sight. It forced through my closed eyelids, bringing me up and out of a borrowed bed and into new streets"
                       -Maya Angelou, "All Gods Children Need Traveling Shoes"
         I'm reading this beautiful book by Maya Angelou right now, in it she discusses her time in Ghana as well as the identity crisis many African Americans experience upon their return to the Mother land. I can't say I've experienced any identity crisis but I can relate to Maya's descriptions of Africa; honestly, they do an excellent job of putting my feelings into words.

         Maya mentions the intimacy of the night air in Ghana, but I've found that there exists a certain level of intimacy amongst Ghanaians as a people. For instance, people often skip "Hello" and greet with the words "Ete Sen" (pronounced eh-teh-syen), which means how are you? There is and undeniable emphasis placed concern for others well being, which is evident in conversation. To me, it's all very southern-- as if i've been living in the same small town all of my life--Ghanaians all seem to care in a purely communalistic type harmony.
         While I have yet to succumb to identity crisis, I have found myself seriously comparing and considering my life at home. True-there are alot of things in Ghana the just wouldn't happen at home:1) we were without electricity and running water for three days this week. 2) the first week of class is more of a 'suggested/optional' first week. [Not to mention that it's hotter than Hades] But on the flip side the majority of people seem happier here or at least happy to help each other. On a campus as large as the University of Tennessee strangers smile and greet one another 'on the regular' and I have yet to pick up on even a hint of racial or national prejudice. Sometimes its hard to come to the conclusion that maybe the people in "developing countries" are lightyears ahead of us in some ways.

        I will say that Ghana is losing the race when it comes to icecream. Many of you know this is my favorite food, but few of you know that good icecream is in short supply. :(  AND i could really go for some fresh, cool, crisp, sushi. Something with cucumbers... mmm. Ghanaian food utilizes alot of heavier starches, rice, casava, plaintain and yams being the most common. These are generally accompanied by chicken, beef, fish, sausage, or [to my surprise] boiled eggs. There are seldom manufactured or baked sweet treats. It's alittle different but FOR THE RECORD: Ghanain Jollof rice is bangin'. I'm talking spicy, moist, flavorful, filling and most of all cheap! Also, fruits are always in season and are never a dissapointment (I am pleased to say my mouth is raw from an excess of fresh pineapple at this very moment).
         Yep, i could definitely get used to some things here in Ghana, like the pleasant breezes around dusk and dawn or the juicy fruits. And i think i'm finally getting the hang of the transportation system. When leaving the campus one can choose to 'roll out' on foot, by car, in a taxi, or on a 'tro tro.' Tro tro's are vans that seat/cram 10-12 people, and while they are less reliable than other modes of transport they are extremely cheap. For example a 15 minute ride would cost about 50 Pesewas (about $0.35). HOW IT'S DONE: Go to a tro tro stop, remain alert (dont get run over by a tro tro) and wait for the proper tro tro. When the van pulls up, listen for what the gentleman at the door shouts; "CRAH-Accra-ccrah-craah" would indicate that the tro tro is heading towards the city of Accra. Ask him "how much?" before you hop on board, then enter quickly (it is not uncommon for the tro tros to merely slow down to trotting pace in traffic rather than pulling all the way to the side) because if you aren't sure you want to catch the ride to Accra, then there will be someone else that is!  The entire process is pretty fast paced, so the first time i made it to the grocery store and back i thought i deserved a real pat on the back.

       I feel lucky to be learning so much from people that seem so eager to teach. Everyone wants to throw in a language lesson or a word of advice, so i'm trying my best to soak it all up. Really though i dont have a choice, I am emersed. Like Maya described, Africa has truly "forced through my closed eyelids, bringing me up and out of a borrowed bed and into new streets."

In the Ghanaian language Twi, the word 'Me da ase' means thank you. i just to say "Meh-dah-say" for reading the blog ya'll! I'll write again soon, please email me to chat or to ask any questions so i can think of what to post next week:D I miss you all!Talk to you soon!

-Ama
PS. many Ghanain people are named after the day they were born on. Since i am 'Saturday born' my Ghanaian name is Ama Danielle.